HOW TO MAKE COMPOST FOR YOUR GARDEN:

• Add your Green Material – this can include kitchen scraps (eggshells, coffee grounds, fruit & vegetable peelings, fruit cores, etc.) and scraps from the yard (weeds, leaves, grass clippings, manure, sawdust, etc.) These scraps are high in nitrogen.
• Add your Brown Material – this can include sawdust, branches, twigs, straw, shredded paper, etc. These materials are high in carbon. There should be a 50/50 disbursement between the green and brown materials (nitrogen and carbon).
• Water your Compost – Add water to your compost regularly so it remains damp. Do not add too much water as the contents of the pile will drown. The compost pile should stay consistently damp, but not soaking wet. The compost pile should be hot in the middle.
• Turn your Compost Pile – Stir/Shuffle your compost every 1-2 weeks to provide oxygen to the pile. Continue to mix the green and brown materials together. Move the outer layer toward the center to expose the decomposing materials.
• What NOT to Compost: Meat & Fish; Diseased, Invasive Weeds; Charcoal Ash; Dog/Cat Waste; Dairy, Fats, Oils

HOW TO IDENTIFY POISON IVY:

• Poison Ivy can be tricky to identify and avoid, but there are attributes that differentiate the plant from others. Poison ivy has compound leaves and each leaf is composed of three leaflets. Each leaflet is 2 to 9 inches long and 1 to 5 inches wide. The stem of the middle leaflet is much longer than the stalks of the two side leaflets.
• In some cases, the stem on the side leaflets can be too small to spot or see. The stems of the two side leaflets are always directly opposite of each other. The juncture where the leaflet joins at the stem is often reddish. Poison ivy teeth edges appear more pointy than other plants such as poison oak.
• The surface of the leaflets can be glossy or dull. Along the main stem/vine, the sets of three leaflets are never directly opposite each other – they have an alternate arrangement. Most of the leaves are green and about two feet high. Poison ivy often grows in mass, and frequently takes over its surrounding area as the dominant plant. 
• Poison ivy leaves in the spring appear as a shiny green and turn into a dull green during the summer months. The leaves then turn to yellow or scarlet in the autumn.

TIPS FOR PLANTING AND GROWING CARROTS:

• The best soil temperature for carrots is between 55 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Till your soil to a depth of 10 inches – remove all rocks, stones and hardened soil clumps.
• Add compost and sandy topsoil if your soil is not loose as the carrots will grow deep into the ground.
• Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep and 3 inches apart in a row (rows are best when 1 foot apart from another). Try to sow the seeds as evenly as possible to avoid the seeds growing together.
• Water lightly but frequently – the soil should be consistently moist to avoid a hard crust on the top layer. Consider covering the top layer of soil with fine sand or sifted compost to prevent a hard crust from forming – carrots require damp soil and the extra sand/compost helps hold moisture.
• The carrots should begin to emerge 15-25 days after planting!
• Our Favorite Recipe – Grilled Carrots

TIPS TO PREP YOUR GARDEN FOR SPRING:

• Prepare Garden Beds – Early Spring is a great time to loosen soil, add soil nutrients and remove all debris. Loosen all compacted soil.
• Weed/Pest Removal – Remove all weeds by their roots to eliminate the chance of them re-sprouting. Turn over the top 6 inches of soil to reveal any pests that have wintered in your garden beds. Caterpillars and cutworms are two common pests to keep an eye out for – they will attack your seedling plants early into the spring season.
• Prune Old Plants – Old shrubs, bushes and trees should be pruned enough to see the branch structures well.
• Conduct a soil test and/or pH test to determine what needs to be added to your soil. Plants/Vegetables have varied and specific needs.
• Fertilize/Compost – Based on the results of your pH/soil test, add the necessary fertilizer or compost to your soil. For example, tomatoes need a bit more calcium than other plants and vegetables. Fertilize/Compost a few weeks before planting to give the nutrients time to reach surrounding soil.
• BONUS – Bare soil brings weeds. One of the best ways to cut down on the time it takes to weed and prepare your garden for spring is to keep your garden bed(s) consistently mulched. Mulch helps minimize the amount of weeds in your garden.

TIPS FOR PLANTING AND GROWING CUCUMBERS:

• Cucumbers thrive in temperatures over 60 degrees Fahrenheit and in drained soil with pH levels between 6.0 and 6.8.
• Cucumbers do best when sown directly into the ground. Space the cucumbers 36-60 inches apart and plant in an area with ample sunlight. Sow seeds 1 inch deep.
• Provide the cucumbers with 1-2 inches of water each week.
• Choose a planting site with adequate drainage and warm, fertile soil. Cucumbers thrive in ample sun.
• Grow cucumbers vertically on a trellis. This opens up space in your garden and makes maintenance/harvesting much easier.
• Our Favorite Recipe – Crispy Cucumber and Chickpea Salad

TIPS FOR PLANTING AND GROWING LETTUCE:

• Lettuce is grown best during the spring and fall in most regions. Ideal soil temperatures are between 50 degrees Fahrenheit and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Extreme heat or prolonged heat will make lettuce “bolt” – move from flower then seed as oppose to growing new leaves. The existing leaves will also become coarse, bitter and tough if exposed to intense heat.

• The seeds should be planted in an area that gets plenty of sun and in soil with pH levels between 6.0 and 7.0.

• Spring lettuce seeds should be planted in the ground 3 weeks before your last spring frost date. Fall lettuce seeds should be planted 4 to 8 weeks before the first frost date.
• Remove all stones and large chunks of dirt from the soil – lettuce seeds are small so stones and dirt may inhibit germination.
• Plant seeds 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch deep. Do not plant seeds too deep as the lettuce seeds need sufficient light to sprout.
• The spacing of the seeds depends on the type of lettuce:
  • Loose-leaf lettuce: 4 inches apart
  • Romaine/Butterhead lettuce: 8 inches apart
  • Crisphead lettuce: 16 inches apart

• The seedling rows should be 12-15 inches apart.
• Water frequently – at least 2-3 times per week. The lettuce should be watered whenever the top inch of soil becomes dry.
• Because lettuce has a shallow root system, we suggest surrounding the lettuce with mulch. Mulch will prevent the top inches of the soil from drying out quickly.
• Most lettuce will fully mature in less than 60 days, and most can be harvested at any stage. Pluck individual leaves off the plant or remove a full head of lettuce when the plant is fully matured.

TIPS FOR WEED CONTROL:

• Mulching is a great way to minimize weeds. Mulch deprives weeds of sunlight while keeping soil moist and cool for your plants. Replenish your mulch as needed – the mulch should be about 2 inches deep (mulch deeper than this can deprive your soil of oxygen).
• When you cannot fully uproot weeds at the base of their roots, cut off the heads of the weeds. Chopping off the heads of the weeds minimizes reseeding and the spreading of weed seeds. This method will provide you a few weeks before weed seeds can spread and grow again.
• Deprive the weeds of water as best as possible. One way to do this is utilizing drip or soaker hoses beneath your mulch – this will efficiently water your plants while depriving the weeds of the water they need.
• Leave as little room in your garden as possible for weeds to grow. This can be tricky as you do not want to overcrowd your garden and deprive your plants of the water, sunlight and nutrients they need. But, planting densely can help in fighting weeds and not providing them with the light and nutrients they need to grow.
• Resist tilling and digging up the top two inches of soil as best as possible. Most weed seeds need sunlight to germinate and can only receive such light in the top two inches of soil. When digging up and tilling your soil, you may be pushing weed seeds to the top two inches of the soil, allowing them to receive the light they need, germinate and spread. Therefore, once you till your soil, plant in the designated area right away and cover it with mulch.
• Using the right tools is essential. It is important to remove the weeds at their roots, and the correct tool is necessary to uproot the full weed and prevent it from growing back.

TIPS FOR PLANTING AND GROWING TOMATOES:

• Tomatoes require ample sun – choose a location to plant the tomatoes that receives 6-8 hours of sunlight per day.
• Ideally, the tomatoes should be grown in soil with a pH level between 5.8 to 7. The soil should be fertile and drain well. Add compost for best results.
• Tomatoes grow best in temperatures ranging from 55 degrees Fahrenheit and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Remove each plant’s lowest leaves and place the root ball deep enough into the soil so only the top layers of leaves are above-ground. It is recommended to bury two-thirds of the stem when planting.
• Plant smaller tomatoes 24 inches apart and larger tomatoes 36 to 48 inches apart. Use stakes or cages around the larger tomato plants – this will allow the tomatoes to grow vertically, prevent rot and plant diseases, and keep the tomatoes off the ground.
• Water the tomato plants directly at their roots.
• Surround the base of the tomato plants with 3-4 inches of mulch to prevent weeds and diseases, and to maintain soil moisture.
• As the plant grows, prune/remove any off-shoot leaves/branches/stems that grow between the main stem and branch that is holding the tomato. This will allow the plant to direct more energy to the tomato.
• Water the tomato plant regularly – aim for 1 inch of water per week.

HOW TO IDENTIFY POISON OAK: 

• Poison Oak can be painful and irritating, and identifying this shrub can be tricky. Poison oak is mostly found in dry, sunny locations and does not thrive in areas with heavy shade. It is a low-growing shrub that can reach almost 3 feet tall, usually as a vine or shrub.
• One poison oak leaf consists of three leaflets – the stem attached to the main terminal leaflet is longer than the stems attached to the other two. Poison oak leaflets are typically a duller green than poison ivy leaflets. The leaflets also have hairs on both sides (unlike poison ivy). The toxic resin found in all parts of poison oak is urushiol.
• The main identifier of poison oak is its lobed leaves, which make it look like an oak leaf. The middle leaflet is lobed (or toothed) similarly on both margins, and the two other leaflets are usually lobed irregularly. Poison oak begins in the spring appearing red. The leaflets then turn green, and finally transition to varying shades of yellow, orange and red in the fall before dropping to the ground. Poison oak often grows in clusters, and some have white or tan berries attached to their stems.
• In general, it is best to adhere to the old saying – “leaves of three, let it be!”

HOW TO KEEP ANIMALS AND RODENTS OUT OF YOUR GARDEN:

• The first step to deterring animals and critters away from your garden is to identify what kind of animal is invading your space. From deer to moles to squirrels, there are identifiers that can help you identify the type of animal. Check for tunnels or mounds of dirt to help identify the creature.
• Make note of which plant/vegetable is being impacted. For example, critters like chipmunks and squirrels are drawn to vegetables and you will see be able to see their nibble marks. Insects and birds create more structural damage.
• Try organic taste and/or odor repellent. Taste repellent contains capsaicin and will require the animal to take a bite out of the designated vegetable. Odor repellent is sulfur-based and smells like rotten eggs. Reapply repellent every 5 to 7 days; it is best to reapply after rain. Using several different products or applying two at a time will yield the best results. Ensuring the formula of your repellent(s) is organic will prevent damage to your plants and soil.
• Using raised beds or pots can limit animal interference depending on the animal size. The taller the pot or bed, the more protection your vegetables will have. Another option is draping bird netting over your plants (using poles to keep it in place and keep the netting tight) – this will deter birds from flying into your plants and damaging them. If the mesh of the netting is small enough, it will also deter certain insects from reaching your plants.
• Adding certain plants/herbs like garlic and/or oregano to your garden can deter small animals and deer as well.  Critters do not like the pungent smell and taste,  and will shy away from eating them.
• Lastly, it is best to be realistic! While there are many tips and hacks to prevent animals and insects from damaging your plants and vegetables, animal interference is to be expected in most gardens. Animals and insects will inevitably find their way into your garden and this is okay! It is their natural habitat. Adding safe precautions will go a long way!

TIPS FOR PREPARING YOUR GARDEN FOR THE FALL SEASON: 

• Clean Up – Prevent disease and pests from spreading throughout your garden over the winter by clearing and removing dead/overgrown weeds, plants and debris. This will give your garden a fresh start when spring arrives.
• Trim and Prune – Trim back and prune dead branches from shrubs, trees and bushes. This will reinforce healthy growth and prevent damage during winters storms.
• Mulch – Spread a layer of organic mulch around your plants and garden to deter weeds, regulate soil temperature and retain moisture throughout the winter months. Straw, leaves and/or compost are great options.
• Divide and Transplant – the Autumn season is a great time to transplant perennials (i.e. irises, hostas, peonies) to give them time to establish roots before winter. Divide the overcrowded perennials to give them space and room for their roots to take hold.
• Prepare Bulbs – If you plan to plant spring-blooming bulbs (i.e. tulips, daffodils), fall is the time to do so. Plant the bulbs before the ground freezes to allow them to establish their roots.
• Shelter Container Plants – if you have potted plants, protect them. Wrap the pots with insulated materials to avoid freezing or move them to a covered, sheltered location. Extremely sensitive plants should be brought inside.
• Prepare Your Lawn – Promote healthy grass growth for next season by aerating and seeding your lawn. Rake and remove debris and leaves off your lawn to prevent disease and mold.
• Fertilize – Use a balanced fertilizer in your garden to give plants a boost. This will help them store nutrients throughout the winter months and give them a strong start in the spring.
• Plant Fall Flowers – Certain plants thrive and bloom in the fall, including pansies, mums and asters. These plants provide nectar for late-season pollinating and add color to the garden.

TIPS FOR PLANTING AND GROWING KALE:

• Kale grows best when planted 3 – 5 weeks before the last frost. Fall/Autumn is one of the best times to grow kale as long as the weather does not drop into the teens. The leaves are sweeter when grown in cooler weather. Kale is resilient, making it one of the easiest of the brassica family to grow.
• Kale can also be planted in the spring before the intense heat of the summer months as kale grows best in cooler temperatures. Seeds will germinate at soil temperatures as long as 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Kale is grown best in well-drained, fertile soil with pH levels between 6.5 and 6.8.
• Plant kale 18 to 24 inches apart in an area that receives ample sun to allow proper air circulation. Use compost, fertilizer, and/or other rich, organic matter when planting your kale. When using compost, apply 1 – 2 inches of compost per 100 square of garden area.
• Plant kale seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep in your soil.
• Water your kale with 1 to 2 inches of water per week. The soil should remain consistently moist.
• Utilize mulch to deter weeds, retain moisture and keep the kale cool. Mulch will help expedite the kale growth process.
• Kale is best harvested starting with the outermost, lowermost leaves once they get to a rich color and large enough to eat. Kale is ready to harvest when the leaves are the approximate size of your hand.
• Avoid snipping and picking the terminal bud to ensure future kale plant productivity. Regular harvesting encourages new growth and can extend the harvesting period. Remove yellow and/or damaged leaves to promote overall kale health.

TIPS FOR TRANSPLANTING: 

• Choose the right time to transplant. One of the worst things you can do to seedlings is abruptly moving them from indoors to outdoors. Gradually introduce seedlings to the outdoors over a span of a few days – placing them outside for 2-3 hours each day. This process is called “hardening off”.  The best time to transplant is during the plant’s dormant season – most species would yield the best results in the spring or fall. Avoid transplanting in extreme heat or cold – a mild, cloudy day is best to avoid excessive sun.
• Dig a hole larger than the root ball of the plant to ensure it has plenty of room to grow. Ensure the new plant site has great soil conditions, adequate sunlight (and shade depending on the species) and proper drainage. Before transplanting, water the plant thoroughly a day or two in advance. Moist soil makes it easier to remove the plant and reduces transplant shock.
• Be very gentle with the plant’s roots and handle with care when transplanting. Try to preserve as much of the root system as possible by digging around the root ball. When moving the plant, handle it by the root ball – not the stem/trunk.
• The plant should be placed in the new hole at the same depth as its previous location. Fill the hole with soil and press gently around the roots to firm up the soil and remove air pockets. If the roots are too clustered at the bottom of the hole, loosen and separate them thoroughly.
• Water the plant after transplanting thoroughly to assist in settling the soil and providing the roots with enough moisture. Water regularly during the first two weeks to help the plant acclimate. If the plant is wilting or its leaves are turning yellow over the first few weeks, change your watering frequency or provide more shade.

TIPS TO CARE FOR YOUR CHRISTMAS TREE:

• Pick The Right Tree – Look for trees with vibrant green needles and a trunk that is sticky with resin. Resin indicates freshness.
• Cut – Cut your tree at its base as straight as possible, ensuring the pores of the tree open up and absorb water more effectively. If sap from the tree gathers and forms over the cut stump, this will block the tree from absorbing water. If the sap forms as mentioned, make a new cut.
• Water Frequently – Use a stand that has a sufficient water reservoir and ensure the tree is always well-watered. Christmas trees consume a lot of water so check the water levels every day. Your tree stand should always be filled with water. Christmas trees can absorb as much as 1 gallon of water (or more) in the first 24 hours, and one or more quarts per day after that. Enough water will prevent needles from drying out and dropping to the floor.
• Keep It Cool – Pick a spot for your tree that is not directly next to heat sources like fireplaces, heating vents, radiators, etc. Excess heat will dry your tree out.
• Add – Consider adding tree preservatives or homemade mixtures (i.e. vinegar, sugar, aspirin) to the water reservoir to help extend the tree’s life. These add-ons provide extra nutrients and prevent bacterial growth.
• Trim – Cut off dried out needles and limbs. As Christmas trees age, needles will dry out and fall off – prune them before in order to keep your tree looking fresh.
• Dispose – When you are ready to dispose of your tree, recycle or dispose of your tree properly. Many towns/communities offer tree recycling programs.

TIPS FOR GROWING POTATOES: 

• Potatoes are generous plants and there are several varieties based on when you harvest. The underground “tuber” is the edible part of the potato; the tuber grows from underground stems (once the plants are 7-8 inches tall). Give them the following and they will accept almost any planting situation: full sun, loose soil, 1″- 2″ of water per week.

• Timing – The potato is a cool-weather vegetable that yields larger crops in the northern half of the United States (but can certainly be grown in warmer regions if done at the right time of year). In warmer regions, potatoes can be planted from September to February; in cooler, northern regions, potatoes are normally planted in mid-April. 

• Conditions – The best time to plant potatoes is in the spring – 2-4 weeks before the last frost. The ideal soil temperatures for potato-growing are 45 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 55 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Let your soil dry out first – the soil should not be wet to the point that it is sticking together.

• ‘Chitting’ – Planting potatoes are called ‘ seed potatoes’. ‘Seed potatoes’ are sold in bags or netting to keep consolidated. Start with organic, certified disease-free seed potatoes. Use the process of “chitting” – lay the seed potatoes on a tray or towel and place them in sunlight (i.e. an indoor windowsill). Placing them in a frost-free, bright area will prepare the potatoes from sprouting and rooting. The ‘chitting’ process results in stocky, green sprouts (long, pale sprouts are not desirable).

• Yield – If you would like to increase your yield of potatoes, consider cutting the seed potatoes in half if the potatoes have enough “eyes” (small dimples where the sprouts emerge from). The potatoes can be cut into 1-2 inch pieces (similar to the size of a golf ball). Let the cut potatoes sit for 2 days after cutting and before planting.

• Prepare Your Planting Area – Spread compost across the planting surface to a depth of 1 inch.

• Decide How You Want to Plant Your Potatoes:

  • Pots: Fill the bottom of the pot (or sack) with 4 inches of potting soil and lay 1-2 potatoes on top and cover with more soil. Once the foliage is growing, add in more potting mix a small amount at a time until the soil level reaches the top.

  • V-Shaped Trenches: Dig 2 – 2.5 Foot holes. Lay compost at the bottom of the trenches and set the tubers into position (each about 1 foot apart). Fill the trenches back in.

  • Holes: Each seed potato requires a 6 inch deep hole. Add organic fertilizer to the hole and place each potato in its hole with sprouts pointing up and cover with soil. The potatoes should be separated by 16 inches in both directions.

  • Straw: Place seed potatoes down into the soil and under the surface. Cover then with straw.

BEST GARDENING TIPS FOR BEGINNERS:

• Location – Pick a location that receives plenty of natural sunlight. Most plants and vegetables require 5-7 hours of sun per day. Different plants/vegetables require different amounts of sun. For example, peppers and tomatoes require more sun than lettuce and spinach.
• Water – Pick a location in close proximity to a water source (i.e. hose, spicket, sprayer, irrigation system, etc.). Similar to sunlight, different plants require different amounts of water. Make sure your plants and vegetables are watered regularly (especially during a heat wave). Avoid burning out your garden by watering your plants as frequently as they require.  With that said, avoid over-watering your garden.
• Soil – Healthy soil is essential for any plant/vegetable. Remove rocks and debris from soil before planting, and add as much organic material (like crushed eggshells, coffee grinds, etc.) as possible. Consider adding leaf mold, compost or aged manure to your soil to increase nutrients and help the soil both hold moisture and drain well.
• Seeds – Many plants and vegetables can be easily seeded in the garden (including cucumbers, beets, spinach, lettuce and more). But consider transplanting certain vegetables including tomatoes, peppers and eggplants directly into your soil.
• Raised Garden Beds – If you do not have much space for your garden, consider using containers and/or raised garden beds to keep organized. Raised garden beds can also be used if you have rocky soil or solid clay (that will not provide the necessary nutrients for your plants/vegetables).
• Mulch – Mulching provides several benefits to your garden and can help keep your soil healthy. Mulch protects soil from eroding, suppresses weeds, moderates soil temperature and helps conserve/hold water.
• Timing – Plant vegetables that best fit your climate and are in season. Most seeds packets you purchase will come with instructions and will provide the best time of the year to plant that particular vegetable/plant. Planting vegetables outside of their growing season will cause major issues.
• Pollinators – Consider growing pollinator-attracting plants (like annuals, shrubs, perennials) in your growing area to attract bees, butterflies and more. These pollinators will help your vegetables/plants grow and thrive.

BEST FRUITS & VEGETABLES TO PLANT IN THE SPRING: 

• Broccoli – Broccoli does not grow well in the intense heat of the summer months and is more of a cool-weather crop so spring is a great time to plant.

• Lettuce – Lettuce is more sensitive to cold weather than many other vegetables. So if your area experiences a late-season cold front, consider covering your lettuce to keep warm.

• Spinach – Spinach can tolerate colder temperatures and even snow in some cases. Spinach seeds will start germinating as soon as the frozen ground begins to thaw.

• Radishes – The best time to plant radishes is 2 – 4 weeks before your area’s last frost when the soil is workable. They can be harvested quickly after sowing.

• Raspberries – Raspberries thrive when planted in early spring. They can be planted directly in your soil/ground, in pots or in raised garden beds.

• Cauliflower – Cauliflower is from the same family as broccoli. Note that the head of cauliflower needs to be protected from excess sunlight once the heads start to form.

• Beets – As soon as your soil is workable (early spring), beets can be sown in your soil. Always leave 4 -5 leaves on the radishes to ensure the vegetable receives enough energy to form the beet root.

• Cucumbers – Plant your cucumbers roughly 2 weeks after the last frost of the winter season. Plant cucumbers in an area with plenty of sunlight and 30-60 inches apart.

• Herbs – Consider planting herbs like oregano, mint and parsley as they come back year after year.

WHAT PLANTS / VEGETABLES / FRUITS GROW WELL WHERE YOU LIVE:

Not all crops grow well in every region. Temperatures, pH Levels, topography, precipitation and more all vary greatly from region to region. Some plants may grow well in Maine but will not survive in Arkansas, and vice versa. One way to determine which plants grow best in your region is to look up your Plant Zone/Hardiness Zone. A Plant Zone/Hardiness Zone is a geographic area categorized as having a certain average annual minimum temperature range.

Use the USDA’s Plant Hardiness Zone Map to find your area’s Zone and growing season. Simply type your zip code into the Zone Map Search to find your area’s results.

The Plant Zones range from 1A to 13A:

• Zone 1A representing -60 to -55 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Zone 13A representing 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

This Zone Map is the standard by which growers and gardeners can determine which perennial plants are most likely to thrive in designated locations. It can be utilized by beginner gardeners and seasoned farmers alike.

TIPS IF YOUR INDOOR PLANT LEAVES ARE TURNING YELLOW: 

There can be a variety of reasons why your indoor plant leaves are turning yellow. This issue could be as simple as old age, but there could be other problems to address.

• Soil Drainage – Poor soil drainage causes water to collect/accumulate in the pot and drown the roots. Make sure the pot or container holding your plant has drainage holes. If the pot does have drainage holes, consider using a different pot with better drainage. Well-draining pots and soil prevent pooling at the bottom and waterlogged conditions.
• Sunlight – Too much sun and/or too little sun can be a reason leaves turn yellow. Too much sun can burn leaves – it is best to slowly expose plants to the sun to build up their tolerance. Not enough sun is another problem – solutions to this include finding a better source of light in the house, using LED plant lights or rotating the pot once a week to ensure even light exposure.
• Watering – Overwatering or underwatering your plants will cause issues. Too much water prevents the roots from absorbing the necessary nutrients and can cause bacteria to build up. Not enough water will dry up the roots and plant, leading to the leaves turning yellow and dropping. It is best to water plants when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
• Root Damage – Causes of root damage include excess fertilizer, temperature fluctuations and inadequate watering. One solution to this is repotting – remove the plant from the pot, brush away excess soil, prune away mushy/squishy roots and put the plant back in the pot.
• pH Levels – Most houseplants grow best in soil with pH levels between 6.0 to 7.0. If the soil’s pH is too high or low, it will not be able to access necessary nutrients. If soil levels are too basic, it can lead to iron deficiency and yellowing leaves. If soil levels are too acidic, leaves will be a darker, dull green color.
• Fungal Infections – Fungal infections can be identified by blotches or spots, and discolor plant leaves. Good air circulation and reducing moisture/humidity can prevent fungal infections.
• Pruning – Cut and remove yellow leaves to prevent spread of issues/disease.

TIPS TO PROTECT YOUR GARDEN IN THE WINTER:

• Mulch – Apply mulch, compost, leaves or hay to help insulate your plants. Mulching helps hold moisture and heat to protect plant root systems.

• Cold Frame – Consider housing plants in an enclosed space like a cold frame or greenhouse. Frost and cold weather will harm and kill your plants, so protecting plants with warmth is essential. You can construct your frame by inserting plant-high stakes in the ground surrounding the plant. Tie the plant and construct a wall around it with material such as burlap, fabric, cloth, chicken wire, etc. Fill the cold frame in with natural insulation such as hay.

• Indoors – Bring potted plants inside. Check the pots and plants for insects that could potentially spread around your house.

• Water – For those plants that remain outdoors, water plants 1-2 days before a freeze/frost is forecasted. Multiple sunny, dry, cold days with consistent freeze/frost will limit a plant’s water intake and dehydrate them.

• Insulate – Consider purchasing a plant winter blanket cover (depending on the size of your plants/trees) and wrap the plant to protect it from frost/freeze. Make sure the cover is tied or weighted down.

• Snow – A layer of snow can actually help insulate plants. Cold, dry conditions are a bigger threat than snow layers. Excessive, heavy snow can be an issue – brush off heavy snow from branches, limbs and elongated stems when possible to prevent snapping and breaking.

• Avoid Pruning – Do not prune your shrubs, plants and trees before winter. Pruning creates “open wounds” on your plant/tree/shrub – your plants/trees will not have time to heal before the cold winter months. Even if your plants, trees and/or shrubs look overgrown, wait until the spring to prune them.

TIPS FOR PRUNING:

• Definition – Pruning is “trimming away” dead, discolored and overgrown stems and branches to increase growth of plants. Pruning promotes further flower/plant growth, keeps insects and disease away, and prevents plants from getting too sparse. Plants benefit the most from pruning during spring and summer (typical growing seasons). Insects and pests are attracted to dead and decaying leaves, so it is best to trim/prune once a leaf turns fully yellow.
• Timing – Pruning is best done after the first display of plants/flowers. Stop pruning after the plants’/flowers’ growing season. Throughout the plants’ growing season, pruning regularly will create lush plants that will encourage new growth; pruning less often will result in “less-full” plants. Prune much less frequently in the fall and winter seasons, as plants are not growing as quickly and it will take them longer to recover from the trimming. Too much pruning in the fall/winter can stimulate new growth that may not “harden off” before colder temperatures roll in, leading to damage.
  • Perennials – Late winter or early spring pruning is best to remove dead or damaged growth while encouraging healthy, new growth. Perennials that are pruned closer to their bloom time will more likely have delayed blooms.
  • Flowering Trees/Shrubs – Prune immediately after they bloom. These plants set their buds for the next year soon after the current year’s flowers fade.
  • Fruit Trees – Prune in late winter or early spring while trees are still dormant to encourage growth and help shape the tree. Light summer pruning can be done to manage size and remove water sprouts – avoid heavy pruning during the summer months.
• Types of Pruning – there are different techniques when it comes to pruning – Thinning and Heading.
  • Thinning – Focus on the base of the plant/flower and/or where stems meet. Reduce the size of overgrown plants/flowers by cutting unwanted stems from the base of the plant. Prune the stems and foliage that is overgrown, discolored or dead. Thinning protects plants against disease and enhances the size and appearance of the plant/flower. Aim to prune/remove one-fourth of the stems; key in on overcrowded areas.
  •  
  • Heading – Cut off dead/discolored foliage and flowers to remove unsightly growth and promote new blooms and production of new flowers/leaves/stems. When the plant has several buds growing along the same stems, prune just below dead flowers – this will encourage new blooms further down the stems. Heading encourages more flowers to bloom for a longer period of time and will carry over to the next growing season.  In some cases, new flowers do not bloom and grow until dead flowers are removed.

• Plan for Sun and Shade – When designing your garden, think about how much sunlight each area gets throughout the day. Position plants where they’ll get the right amount of light for their needs—full sun for tomatoes, partial shade for lettuces, and so on. Use shaded areas to grow plants that prefer less light, or set up cozy seating spots to enjoy your garden during hot afternoons. Planning your layout with sunlight in mind will keep your plants thriving and your garden comfortable.

• Use Edible Ground Covers – Edible ground covers like creeping thyme or Alpine strawberries are a practical and attractive addition to any garden. These plants help keep weeds at bay, improve soil quality, and add a lush, low-maintenance layer to your landscape. Plus, they’re edible! Whether walking barefoot through thyme-scented paths or picking tiny, sweet strawberries, these ground covers add charm and utility to your garden design.

An edible landscape is more than just a garden—it’s a space that feeds your body, delights your senses, and provides a peaceful escape. Whether you’re planting herbs, building raised beds, or adding a water feature, every choice you make adds to the beauty and functionality of your yard. With a bit of planning and creativity, you can turn your outdoor space into a stunning, productive oasis that you’ll enjoy for years to come.

TASTE MEETS BEAUTY: A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO FUNCTIONAL EDIBLE LANDSCAPING:

We have partnered with the incredibly talented Cheryl Conklin from wellnesscentral.info to provide this guide for edible landscapes. An edible landscape is the perfect way to combine beauty and functionality in your garden. Imagine a space that’s lush and colorful and provides fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs for your table. Whether you’re new to gardening or looking to refresh your yard, this guide will help you design a garden that’s as delicious as it is stunning.

• Choose Plants for Year-Round Beauty – To keep your garden vibrant throughout the year, opt for plants that thrive in every season. Picture strawberries blooming in spring, juicy berries and peaches ripening in the summer, and rich nuts and crisp apples filling your baskets in the fall. During the colder months, hearty greens like chard can add a pop of color to your garden while standing up to frost. Planning for all seasons means you’ll enjoy a garden that’s always alive with flavor and beauty.

• Add Herbs for Function and Flair – Herbs are the unsung heroes of edible landscaping because they’re great for cooking and bring texture, fragrance, and color to your garden. Think about planting lavender for its soothing scent, thyme for its ground-covering charm, or basil for its vibrant green leaves. Herbs are low-maintenance and versatile; you can grow them in garden beds, pots, or window sills. They’re a simple way to add style and practicality to your landscape.

• Make the Most of Small Spaces – Don’t let limited space stop you from creating an edible landscape. Raised beds and containers are perfect for maximizing small areas while keeping your garden organized and stylish. Raised beds make it easier to tend plants without bending over, and containers can be moved around to catch the best sunlight. This approach is ideal for urban gardeners or anyone looking to make the most of a smaller yard. Our 6 Pocket Vertical Grow Bag is another ideal solution for small spaces!

• Combine Perennials and Annuals – A tremendous edible garden balances perennials and annuals for variety and productivity. Perennials like asparagus and rhubarb return year after year, providing reliable harvests with minimal effort. Annuals, on the other hand, can be rotated each season, keeping the soil healthy and your garden visually interesting. Mixing these plant types ensures your garden stays dynamic and full of life all year long.

• Add a Water Feature – Water features aren’t just beautiful—they’re also great for your garden’s ecosystem. A small fountain or pond can attract beneficial insects and birds that help with pollination and pest control. Plus, the soothing sound of running water creates a relaxing atmosphere, making your garden a peaceful retreat. Whether a simple bird bath or a more elaborate pond, adding water can elevate your landscape while supporting the health of your plants.

BEST VEGETABLES FOR A FALL GARDEN:

• Beets
• Radishes
• Broccoli
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Peas
• Onions
• Garlic
• Kale
• Loose-Leaf Lettuce
• Carrots
• Turnips

TOP FALL GARDENING TIPS:

• Frost Date – Know your local frost date! Understanding your frost dates is key to determining when to plant each vegetable. Use each vegetable’s “days to maturity/grow” and count backwards from the fall frost date to determine when to plant. 
  • For example, if the local first frost day is 90 days away, choose vegetables that can grow/mature in 90 days or less and plant accordingly.
  • Each crop’s “days to maturity” will vary.
• Helpers – Use helpers like frost covers, cloches, cold frames, hoops, etc. to protect the young vegetables from the outdoor elements. Spreading mulch around the vegetable roots will also help regulate soil temperature and moisture.
• Refresh Your Soil – The summer heat and crops can deplete the nutrients in soil. Replenish your soil with compost and/or fertilizer and loosen compacted soil to allow fall seedlings to grow easily.
• Early Start – Crop seedlings can be started indoors or under shade to give them a head-start. They then can be transplanted outdoors when the weather cools down. This will jump start their growth before daylight hours get too short.